When removing a really tight muzzle device on an AR (or anything else for that matter), there can be an ussue with the amount of torque applied and what we use, what part of the rifle that is, to counter that torque. This is something new that will be available in a couple weeks.
Here’s the one I use. I’ve made several of these over the years, no two look the same as I have been making them from whatever’s around, I think I even made one out of steel….. anyhow it’s been on my list for over a year now to make a batch and offer them, have had the stock here since I put it on the list (I am so optimistic about what I can get done some times). Got it squared up a few months ago….. now I’m back on it.
Anyhow—it will do barrels from just over an inch on down to standard A-1 size, 5/8 diameter. Cap screws thread into a piece of 5/8 round steel that also sticks out one side 1 ¼ or so. The idea is to keep the wrench light and small as possible, so where I might have just left the 5/8 piece long enough to be the handle, I figure whenever you’re doing this there is a bolt carrier around so, it slips over the 5/8 piece as leverage. You can either two-hand the operation or just leave the carrier down on a bench to keep the barrel from moving while you tighten or loosen. I know some might consider it improper to use the carrier this way but it sure is handy and it for sure can take it-- we're not talking mega-torque here, nor impact. I just didn't think it was worth it in toolbox space or weight to have a piece of pipe dedicated to it; worry warts could use an adjustable wrench on the extended, protruding round piece.
I use this tool a lot more for getting off than putting on. My own guns, students’ guns, I’m pretty light-touch on torqueing things on the end of a barrel but as we are getting more suppressors in class I have used this with a strap wrench to get cans on so they won’t come loose.
I just never liked the idea of using the whole gun as a wrench against the wrench getting the flash hider or whatever off—like, pistol grip between the knees style. Never liked it but have done plenty of it, but this is a much better / safer way. Even though I would add, if the barrel comes out of the extension, that’s probably where the problem was and it might have happened all by itself later. What always worried me was shifting the barrel extension from side to side in the upper receiver every time something at the end of the barrel is loosened or tightened. Again, done plenty of that with no apparent bad result but certainly in theory it is not ideal.
What I have drawn up is exactly what is seen here except the ¼-20 cap screws are not counterbored flush. I have been counterboring them so it could also be squeezed in a vise but I have never used mine that way and I don’t think the others have either. Anyway you still could. Screw heads sticking out makes for easier quick-adjust from say a small barrel to a big one, and also lets you hand-tighten the screws down onto the provided 3/16 hex wrench, between the jaws, for storage so you don’t lose the wrench. I also have a step planned on the jaw so it can be a gas tube clamp—for no more trouble that it will take to make the cut it might as well be there. Not sure yet on price, I need to make this batch of ten or twenty to see what I can do.
Hope to have these done by mid September unless I see a squirrel or something.
Note the paper between the tool and the barrel to make sure no aluminum gets scraped onto the barrel.