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Is there anything different about doing a trigger job on a 1911 Kimber rimfire 22lr? Any limitations or issues to be careful about between this caliber and a centerfire 1911 or is it the same?

Can any of you talented gunsmiths let me know? Many thanks!

Should be as straightforward as trigger work on any other Kimber. Push out the pins and shake out all the unacceptable parts. Replace them with acceptable parts, properly set up.

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OK.

Also, since these 22 rimfires do not lock back slide on last round, is it any more damaging to dry fire on a rimfire 1911 than on a centerfire one? I remember being told NOT to dryfire a rimfire revolver, but never thought about the pistol situation.

Take your pistol and check firing pin protrusion - if the firing pin protrudes enough to peen the chamber don't do it. If the firing pin has a stop or is coil bound before it hits the recess for the cartrodge rim then worry about the stop or watch the firing pin spring and plan on replacing it from time to time (just as you would on a centerfire 1911 dryfired extensively even if never fired with live ammunition.)

Traditionally almost all rimfires would hit the chamber, peening the chamber and of course eventually the pin. Peened chambers will cause feeding and espeically extraction problems as the chamber goes egg shaped. Today many rimfire pistols, e.g. Ruger Mk III .22 will have a firing pin stop.

I don't have a Kimber handy to check and I wouldn't trust reports to be current but that's just me.