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Bought a used Springfield mil-spec type with hopes of having it "built". The rear of the slide (right side only) is slightly longer than the frame,no more than 1/32" I'd guess. While I'm guessing that this wouldn't affect the functioning of the gun,would a tighter slide to frame fit be the answer or is there some way that these two parts can be "blended" to get a more seamless look? Basically just wondering what to ask a smith without sounding like an idiot when I do get ready to have it customized.

What you're seeing is not uncommon with most 1911s. A mismatch between slide, frame, ejector and extractor is commonly dealt with after fitting any new parts and doing any barrel fitting that's planned. I do it before serrating the rear of slide, machining for the rear sight or carry bevel. Tell your 'smith that you want the area blended and that should clear things up.

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shop.HarrisonCustom.com
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The grand essentials to happiness in this life are something to do, something to love and something to hope for.

The slide to frame fit actually feels pretty good on this gun. I just wasn't sure what to ask for to correct the problem.

Of the 1911s/Clones in my safe, I have five with enough virtical play between the slide and frame that I can see the recoil spring and light shining through from one side to the other.

Two are 70 series Colts that are waiting their turn to be sent to one of the fine artisans that grace this forum.

The 3rd 70 series Colt, is currently being worked on by a well known Colt Wisperer.

The 4th, is a top of their line, from one of the Big 3, semi custom houses.

The final one is my first custom Colt and has spoiled me from acquiring any more new off the rack silver spoons no matter how much the chrome glistens.

I have several others from the Big 3, Baer, Brown and Wilson where the fit is flawless and they are shooters. However, my two best shooters have far less than a perfect fit.

My questions are:

How much does the perfect slide to frame fit have to do with functionality, reliability and accuracy, and how much aesthetics?

How much of the poor fit, if any can be eliminated by a properly fitted barrel and bushing?

My sense is that welding and re-cutting is the ideal way to go but, does this process have any negitive impact on the structure of the steel?

If the fit is corrected using the cxisting barrel and bushing will it have to be re-done should you choose to replace the barrel and bushing?

Thanks, I look forward to your comments.

Generally, the consensus among 1911 'smiths is that frame to slide fit perhaps accounts for about 10% +/- of overall accuracy. A properly fit bushing will do more than any single item in most cases to tighten up accuracy.
Though others opinions may differ, I haven't found frame to slide play to affect reliabilty to any significant extent. Depending on the amount of play, welding and recutting of the rails may be the only viable option as opposed to "squeeze and peen".

A match barrel will tighten up the vertical "in battery" play, but won't do anything for any horizontal movement, and given the cost of refitting a factory barrel to match specs, I'd opt for a match barrel, which, while a bit more pricey is a better value for the money spent.

Hope this helps,

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Don Williams
http://www.theactionworks.com
http://www.ltwguns.com

Hi Don-
Could you clarify a little more on vertical stringing - I had thought this was more an issue of the links rather than the barrel?

thank you

richard

Richard, Vertical stringing will typically occur in two ways:
One is that the rearmost side of the recoil spring guide will extend to the rear a bit too much, and it is impinging on the link lugs of the barrel as opposed to resting on the frame forward of the link lugs.. This is best diagnosed by some fore to aft freeplay in the slide. In other words, with the recoil system and it's spring in place, and the slide in battery, you can actually feel a bit of fore to aft movement in the slide without any spring pressure evident; you will also see some evidence of the contact between the recoil spring guide and link lugs.
The other occurence is when you have a snug barrel to bushing fit, but when the gun is fired the barrel is coming back into battery at the rear on the link rather than the link lugs. Most stock links have a slightly oversize hole for the slide stop, and this will allow some up and down movement when the barrel is in battery.
It's been my experience that the former is the more common cause of vertical stringing, as most guns even if they do have some play in the link to slide stop pin area seem to recycle to about the same point shot to shot.

Hope this helps,

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Don Williams
http://www.theactionworks.com
http://www.ltwguns.com

Thanks Don, your response is a big help. Now, when I send my tools off to be rebuilt, I will have a better perspective on what I want done and why. I will also, hopefully, be able to have a more intelligent and concise conversation with very busy Pistolsmiths.