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 Post subject: Opinion on Ivory grips
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 8:56 am 
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Location: Jacksonville Fl
I see so many custom guns with great looking ivory grips. My question is how functional are they on an every day carry gun?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:14 am 
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They can be very functional... I’m currently trying to wear out a pair of Government Models both adorned with thin Ivory stocks. I carry and use these guns on a daily basis, Ivory stocks and all, and one set in particular has somewhere around 9000-10,000 rounds on them.

It’s not really a problem until one starts over tightening stock screws. And the age old trick of placing a rubber “O” ring around the stock crew (between the screw head and the stock panel) goes a long way to help reduce any over pressure the stocks may incur. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:28 am 
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Location: Jacksonville Fl
Thanks for the information.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:26 am 
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Location: Henry's Fork
This from 256M-S on another forum
Quote:
surely do believe in taking care of ivory grips on using guns (and probably more so, for guns that sit unused in climate controlled rooms or safes with golden rods installed). I've never had problems with ivory on heavily used guns, but I've also periodically oiled it and I don't have the extending checking that I've seen on other folks handguns and knives. Do have one of Sid Birt's lovely old pieces that looks like a short scramaseax whose thick, uncarved walrus ivory handle has a full length check that amounts to a major split...thanks to being in storage for over ten years while I was overseas. Especially given the costs of ivory today, it's worth the effort to me.....
That gentleman who knows a whole lot more than I do and gets paid for writing it down under other names has a pair of maybe 40 year old Swensons with ivory.

A.G Russell has useful words on using ivory for knives and such as well.

There is a real distinction in hand between ivory and mineralized or fossilized ivory as well.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 6:42 am
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Location: Tucson, AZ
I've got a very nice set of Nutmeg Sports elephant ivories on my Colt Delta carry-comp that
I shoot a lot of hot ammo through, and they are nicer now than when I bought them 4 years
ago!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:42 am 
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Ivory is one of those "finer things in life" that we treat ourselves to. Like so many of the nicer things, however it requires our attention periodically, and common sense during use and storage.

Worth the extra effort in every way, IMO.

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Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 11:11 am 
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Location: Republic of Texas
Quote:
...but I've also periodically oiled it and I don't have the extending checking that I've seen on other folks handguns and knives...
Ok, I'll bite. What type of oil does one use on their ivory?

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Dave Berryhill
Berryhill Custom, LLC


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 11:30 am 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
Pure mineral oil is what I was told to use.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:34 pm 
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Location: Henry's Fork
Quote:
Stag, ivory, wood (not stabilized) should have at least two coats of a good HARD wax rubbed on and polished at least twice a year. They will out last your great grand children.

A. G.
Hard wax here means solid not liquid not spray not soft. Mr. Russell sometimes uses neutral shoe polish. IIRC Layne Simpson uses Turtle Wax (carnuba from the palm?) but it may not be the same product today. No doubt most of us have a lifetime supply of what works - I notice I'm still working on a quart of Rig from 40 years ago (not on my stag or ivory I hasten to add!)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 6:45 pm 
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I know that I love the look and feel of the ivory, and wish I could afford to have Colton toss a set on the gun he's going to work for me. I couldn't do the fake stuff. Just wouldn't be right.

In other words, go for it!

Theo


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:10 pm 
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Location: OKLAHOMA
Just rec'd a stunning set of ivory grips that Roy Fishpaw custom fit on my S&W Triple Lock. While I used to use baby oil on ivory, Mr. Fishpaw advised perodically coating his grips with a clear oil, and suggested REMOIL. Haven't done it yet, but probably will follow his advice. SRT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 8:53 pm 
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Location: Jacksonville Fl
Thanks for the great information. It is a hard choice to make, exotic wood for my 1st custom gun, or go for the gold and get the ivory.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:04 pm 
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Location: Tempe, Arizona
It is my humble opinion that among other things that every red blooded American should be issued a set of authentic elephant ivory stocks for their favorite personal carry gun. Maybe something like when you get your first library card....the librarian says upon issuance of your card "and what model for the ivories?" And you calmly say "Colt 1911" she quickly replies "good choice young man"

Just a thought. :roll:

Ivories hold up beautifully and like others said can be cleaned up if necessary. Burton is the one pistolero I know that wears them consistently.

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Last edited by Steve Bailey on Sun Apr 24, 2005 4:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 12:09 am 
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Location: so cal
i think the ivory looks good and am deff having it on the CCO, just a classic look like amazing hang done leather.
trevor

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:48 am 
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Location: The Great Pacific NW
I've owned several sets of ivory grips both on 1911s and custom revolvers (.44 Special Ruger Blackhawk and Colt SAA) and, now that I think about it, two sets on Smith revolvers as well. I have never had one of them break, although I did buy one set of 1911 ivories that were cracked. While I have seen several sets of cracked and chipped revolver ivories, I have only seen one set of 1911 ivories that cracked to the point of breakage. I don't know the story, but I think Jason does. I suspect it was because someone cranked down on the grip screws too hard. Ivory will hold up well to everyday use, but I would hesitate to put them on a "hard use" gun that may go bouncing across a parking lot. I once looked at an ivory-stocked, Jim Riggs engraved Colt SAA that had most of the right grip pannel broken off and the engraving was basically destroyed. The owner was wearing the gun in a high-ride belt rig (without strap or tie down) on horseback when his horse decided to get "frisky" on the side of a mountain. The gun flipped out of the holster and bounced about 500 feet down the hill in the rocks. :shock: It took the owner the better part of two hours to find the gun. Last time I saw it, it was hanging on his gunshop wall as a warning of what not to do!

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Wayne Miller


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 2:48 pm 
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Location: Jacksonville Fl
After long thought, changing my mind at least twice and bothering two of the great minds on this board I have finally come to a decision regarding the issue of grips for my pistol.

My Colt Series 70 is at Tes's for a basic 1* package with the necessary upgrades. I have decided that I want the real ivorys on the gun, but also have the set of wood that comes with the package for those times when the ivory might be damaged.

Thanks to everyone here that helped me to come to this decission. When the gun makes it home I will post pics.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2005 11:44 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 2:45 pm
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Location: Ohio
Just curious, I'd really like of set of ivory grips for my Springfield "Pro". What do people like better in ivory, smooth or checkered?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2005 11:50 am 
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Location: Jacksonville Fl
I personally like smooth, but as of now I have little experience.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2005 11:53 am 
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Location: Ohio
If Damian sees me asking about ivory grips I am going to be in for real ribbing from my buddies at Adco :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2005 3:17 pm 
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I recommend Mike Poulin for 1911 ivory grips.
When I lived in CT I saw numerous pairs of Ivories from everyone in the business and Mike's are the nicest. He has older medallions also for those pre-war guns.

Do a search on google as I do not have his contact info. I think he has a link on http://www.coltautos.com

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2005 3:24 pm 
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Location: Henry's Fork
Given that I have a strong gripping treatment front and rear

(mostly checkering in my case but likely with one of the new trademark treatments I might go with an industrial look, Micarta maybe?)

I'll go with smooth ivory grips - if I had a smooth front and MSH I'd go with checkering on the grip panels but probably not ivory.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2005 8:51 pm 
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Location: Florida
Think you'll be pleased with a set of well aged and fitted ivory grips.

I've split a set of ivory grips on a 1911 but I've shattered the butt of a set of walnut Jordans on a Model 19. Neither occurred from shooting and I've had several sets of ivory grips that I've used heavily for over 35 years.

Smooth ivory slabs for autos or thick smooth ivory for revolvers will, I believe more readily check than carved or checkered ivory. I've surely observed that with knife hilts. Allows more surface contact with the air. The checkering or carving though is expensive if it's good and cheap checkering or carving on good ivory is more grotesque than plastic imitation ivory. Lots of YankeeDollars to prevent checking and for the sake of appearance, though good carving can surely be functional as was the carving on Elmer Keith's revolver butts which provided a bit of palm swell which helped in recoil control on his 44's.

Checking can be minimized by oiling with Johnson's Baby Oil. Dunno about cheaper brands and other solutions. I started with it many years ago as the norm recommended by knowledgeable gun folks and it's worked for me well enough that I don't care to change. That plus the natural skin oils from lots of time in the hand.

If you're in a very dry and arrid climate, you might try soaking the ivory initially for 24 hours in DISTILLED water and from time to time thereafter. That was a recommendation from an old Basque lady who had sold high end antiques in Africa for half a century. It's especially useful for new ivory whose curing is dubious.


CLARKEMYERS:
BTW, thanks Mr. Myers, for your kind comments earlier. Not sure how well deserved they are, but kind of you.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 4:13 am 
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Location: The Old Dominion
Mike Poulin's website:

http://hometown.aol.com/mgpsrjr/myhomepage/index.html

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 5:57 am 
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Location: Athens, AL, USA
I have a pair of smooth ivory grips on my carry 1911. I wax them once a month or so with Renaissance Wax that I found on Brownells. It is supposed to be ideal for use with ivory. So far the ivories look great and are working well. Here is a link to the product: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... aspx?p=236

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2005 2:15 pm 
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Location: Windy City
So now one must ask the question:

What's the damage to my wallet for ivory grips?

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Phil


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2005 9:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 10:43 am
Posts: 87
Location: Jacksonville Fl
I decided to have the guys at Ted's shop fit a plain set of smooth ivorys to my Colt for an extra $200. I have seen ivorys for cheaper but they were not from a reputible dealer and they were not custom fit. From my research I have found that you have to make sure you are getting slab ivory and not grips made from ivory dust and resin.

My opinion, ivory is one of those things that you buy from someone that you trust and not from someone you don't know. This is the best way to make sure you are getting what you pay for.


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