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I'm having one of my S&W full size 1911's bobtailed next month and also will be having the following work completed:
-Ed Brown Snakeskin Bobtail MSH
-Checker front strap
-Barrel Recrowned and New EGW bushing
-EGW Ignition set with Dlask ultralight trigger
-STI titanium hammer strut
-STI titanium mainspring cap
-Novk sights (tritium front, wide notch rear)
-EGW Slide Stop
-Ed Brown Tactical Safety
-New pair of Wicked Grips
-Two tone Cobra Coat finish (colors undecided)

This will be a carry gun but I want it done right the first time. Am I missing anything? Suggestions or comments?

I think you should use the same treatment on the frontstrap as on the mainspring housing for continuity. To my eye, a gun looks busy if those two areas don't match.

I would suggest a different trigger than the Dlask, but again, I do not like their looks.

As you are going this far, I would also probably replace the MIM firing pin stop and mag catch.

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As far as the trigger, I got a deal on a 3 hole Kings black (long) so thats what I'll be using. I do intend to replace all the nim parts and will probably go with Wilson or Brown unless pointed in another direction. Also, I decided to just go with a black (glossy) cobracoat and you are probably right-on about the checkering. Originally, it was going to be a smooth bobtail housing but due to "gripability" issues I was advised to go with checkering or the snakeskin. Another issue is that I don't want the gun bouncing from shop to shop to shop for work. I would rather have it done at one shop although the frame/slide has to go to Virgil. Thanks for the input, I really respect what you folks have to say so keep it coming as I'm dropping it off the first week of Sept to have the work started.

I have to agree that the front and rear treatments should be the same. As far as what parts to change and which brand to use, I would ask the advice of the pistolsmith that was going to do the work. I think you are right in trying to find one smith to do all the work (except maybe finishing). Look around on the websites and make some phone calls and find a smith that is willing to help you make a gun that you will be very happy with. Good luck with your project.

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I really like the look and feel of my Dlask trigger on my Hoag Gold Cup but every pistolsmith I have dealt with, except Jim has talked me out of putting them in. They must know something.....

Stippling on the front strap and on the bobtail........ thats just my opinion, I could be wrong

Already have the smith picked out so thats not an issue but with the exception of a few things has left it up to me. I have looked at stippling and this guy does great work but I just don't know, this is a carry gun and stippling seems pretty agressive, mixed with an IWB I can already feel it rubbing me the wrong way! I would love to do the golf ball or comyard treatment but that entails another smith and like I said earlier I'm trying to avoid that. Again, thank for the replies and keep them coming!

Stippling can vary greatly in the degree of aggressiveness. At it's most aggressive, it can draw blood (Clark Tiger Tooth). Stippling as done by most 'smiths, it's not as aggressive as snake skin or 20 - 25 lpi checkering.
You might consider scallops, if your 'smith offers them. Easy on clothes and cover garments, but will offer good grip when you squeeze down on it.
I'm also of the opinion that one should use the same traction treatment on front and back for the majority of applications.

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John, do you know if a front strap that has already been serrated be scalloped? I have a friend that wants to sell his S&W Gunsite commander. I don't like serrations on a front strap and that is the only thing keeping me from buying it.

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You will probably run into front strap thickness issues. I don't know what spacing the S&W serrations are cut at, but 20 lpi serrations are cut around .030 to .035" deep, as are scallops. Most front straps are .060" to .085" thick. Some careful measuring is in order before your question can be answered accurately, but a S.W.A.G. answer is "not likely" .
Sorry!

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Thanks John. With apologies to those that like serrations I never understood their utility. Since they run in the same direction of the recoil I have always found them to be barely more useful than a plain untreated front strap.

I guess my alternative would be to have the fs stippled. Would it be possible to checker usaing the exsisting serrations?

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My answer would be yes, on a case by case basis.

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