ltwguns.com

On several internet forums there are discussions about the square EGW firing pin stop and how wonderful they are, they reduce recoil etc etc.

Question...if they are so great why isn't every gunsmith using them?? I have not seen a single gunsmith post that they use it. Is it all hype?? or are they that good and just haven't caught on yet?

I assume gun makers don't use them because the angled bottom type make it easier for the user to cycle the slide?

Fess up time.....good idea, hype or only good in certain guns?

Thanks for your time,
Gunner

There have been a bunch of posts here if guns built by LTW smiths that have used them. If you use the search button you will see who uses them.

George makes great parts. Some may prefer to use a different part here or there, but I have never heard a smith here or any where else every have an unkind word for EGW parts.

BTW, if you ever met George you would a good laugh at the notion that George hypes his parts. His parts are what they are and he sells a ton of them, and unlike some of his competitors he doesn't have to spend a small fortune in advertising to get people to buy them.

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"Domari Nolo"

You misunderstood my comment..........posters on the forums are talking up the part ie hype. I WAS NOT saying George was hyping the parts. I was curious what the smiths take/opinion on it was.

Gunner

I'm not a LTW smith, but I use them, just not on everything I build. It depends on the setup, caliber, loads...etc.

I just ordered 7 of them for different projects in house including 2 more Deltas for my Pops. Speaking of Deltas, I'm looking for a bone stock Stanless - any leads?

I put a small bevel on them (.020 to .040) on the leading edge on mine. There is an almost unmeasureable difference in adding the bevel, it just helps the leading edge/hammer interface.

Take care,
Bob

I use George's FP stops on most every gun, whether it gets the smaller radius or not. They are the perfect amount oversized to accommodate whatever combo of parts to give a no-slop fit of the extractor head, and they are a really tough part.

As to the smaller radius slowing the cycle or helping to delay unlocking, I subscribe to that theory, guardedly. It just seems so dang logical, but I can't say I've proven it scientifically. I have had a couple problematic guns that were not cured by doing it, and I can't honestly say I have had a gun that was clearly and positively cured by doing it. I can say that without a doubt it does no harm. It sure seems like it ought to help so I do it on most guns shorter than 5", to varying degrees.

Thanks Guys.

Here is what I can offer from other people that have had good experience.

Larry Stuerwald when with Para repair (well he was para repair actually himself) had some issues with some of the super short P-10 guns.
We talked about it and I asked him to try some and just break the corner. The guns were leaving cases in the chamer (not so good)
He put one in a gun, shot it, it worked, pulled it out and shot it and it stopped working and left cases in the chamber.

An insider in a company that makes short guns let me know that they buy "bunches" of them to cure problematic guns and are very pleased.

Gary from Ace, he builds the 45 super to kill T rexes I suppose??
he found he could drop the recoil spring by 4 lbs by using the stop and provideds them with his kit.

Ned, actually Austin gave me the idea. but in the opposite way. He did a scallop on his hammer to make the slide easier to cock by raising the contact point on the fp stop. I simply reversed the idea and moved the contact point down to give the slide less leverage when cocking the hammer.

I very much appreciate that so many people buy our stops. We made a run about 6 weeks ago and ran out (600 pcs) of 45 ser 70 stops last week. Thank you for the work
geo

I remember the scooped-out lower front face on Behlert guns.

I've wondered about, maybe just as an extreme experiment, using a squared-off FP stop plus the reverse of the Behlert hammer mod, in other words a hammer face that's angled forward, from where the hammer face roots in the hammer body, up to the area that strikes the FP. Hmmm...

But it's like the old Three Stooges deal again, where when you push in one drawer, another one comes out. I wonder if the above mod would stress the hammer by really whipping it back. I'll try it sometime soon on a gun that will not be for carry.

I use EGW firing pin stops religiously (send check now, George ) . As Ned pointed out, for more than one reason.

I don't always run them square - that usually depends on the caliber and/or shortness of the action.

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CT Brian Custom
'Blending Art With Firepower'

If you look at the hammer as a lever, moving the contact point of the FP stop down closer to the pivot point effectively shortens the lever, making it harder for the slide to cock the hammer (all other things being the same, such as hammer & recoil spring weights and slide mass).
I've used EGW's firing pin stops to make sure that 10MM Commander length guns work reliably, and as mentioned, to assure no extractor clocking occurs, and the stop will stay put if there is a delay in firing pin return. Frankly, I like all of EGW's parts that I've tried and continue to use them.

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Don Williams
http://www.theactionworks.com
http://www.ltwguns.com

Ned, I have just the gun in mind

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"The most effective armor is to keep out of range"-Italian proverb

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_________________
"The most effective armor is to keep out of range"-Italian proverb

CHECK OUT MY CUSTOM 1911 BLOG
http://thearsenalofdemocracy.blogspot.com