ltwguns.com

First up, modifying the slide stop cutout for maximum reliability.
Notice how in the first pic the slide stop upper lug fills the slide cut 100%. This gives a very narrow window of opportunity for the stop to fully rise.
Pic #2 shows the elongated cutout.
A pain to re-machine but just another small step to 100% reliability!





Couple pics of Colt factory 'edge breaks' on repro WW1 and WW2 slides.
Thanks for nothing Colt! Off to the welder they go!





My new off road truck gun. Modifications pending!
It's short, light, flat and good to 100yds......and beyond.
Fits in a laptop case or a backpack nicely.
Or.........on the seat or under the seat.
Here in AZ if you can legally own it, you can carry it concealed.



Magwell and lanyard attachment cut on a WW2 repro.
Checkering by The Master, Pete Single.

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http://www.rogersprecision.com

Excellent! Do you also tweak the fit to get the slide stop lobe as far up into the notch and with as much contact along the back face as possible? How do you mitigate the outer edge peening that sometimes appears in the notch?

I hate that, too, but have avoided the slides vs trying to find someone who can weld them without it showing badly when finished. But I haven't used Cerakote yet either.....
Rock 'n Roll or...? I have an SP89 that needs a registered auto sear. Yeah, I know. Good luck with that.

Yours is the best looking lanyard loop variation I've ever seen.

Chuck you would think that after 100-plus years they'd have certain things down better. I've noticed inconsistency on slide stop notches with regard to the fillet where the slide stop is acting on the slide, i.e. too big (the area you are talking about, BBBBill). On some it doesn't matter because the whole cut is high enough that the top of the slide stop won't reach the radius, but my habit on Colts has been to (and, just as you say, pain in the ass) get in there with a 3/64 cutter and make it a little higher with a smaller radius. I have broached them sharp like Colt did at one time but have found it's not necessary and anyway since then have see a Colt with the slide cracked*, starting right there at a broached-sharp slide stop notch.

As to the slide end chamfers, that's kinda funny coming from Colt who usually just leaves them shaving sharp! Now they're chamfering in the wrong places...? But, I must say, they look very consistent!

Do these WWI repros all have a rampant pony under the LH grip? I don't think I've ever had one here.

BBBBill, you know what they did way back about that peening, right? I mean as prevention? Just testin' ya here

*Crack shown in this thread, third page, posted October 5, 2017:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=8365

I'd go SOT Manufacturer before I'd pay 30k for a registered sear!
I'm pretty happy with it semi.
It seems to fit the mission requirements pretty well.
I looked at the Glock/Roni units and found them wanting.
Also looked at the Evo Scorpion carbine.
I'd like to try a B&T although the price does not fit the mission.

I do adjust the slide/slide stop interface when needed.
Outer edge peening has never been an issue. Perhaps I'm
just lucky.

I'd like to have these 2 WW builds blued or parkerized.
They will be going to Pullman Arms for the weld-ups and I'll
let them know.

_________________
http://www.rogersprecision.com

Errr.... ahhh... spot heat treat?
I had purchased two registered sears back when they were less than $1K each. While waiting on the ATF paperwork to clear the dealer sent a refund with no explanation. I'm sure that they got an offer that they could not refuse. Needless to say I was furious.

Please post up the results. I'm going to send a couple items to Pullman for repair, but color matching is not an issue with them. An OACP frame I have will need some welding where appearance will matter. I would like to have some finish options after the repair is done.