ltwguns.com

I have a friend who wants to trade some holsters. He has an Alessi CQCS in burgundy that I'd like but all my belts are black. Is redying practical or would I be better off buying new in the color I want?

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NRA Life Member
Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles

I would bet that Lou has done that before - he knows all the tricks.

I would send him an e-mail and ask. I have re-dyed some holsters after applying the finish coat with good results, so I would bet Lou would do it.

5Shot

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I will never forget you Lou......February 21, 2009

John Ralston
5 SHOT LEATHER, LLC - Finely Crafted Custom Handgun Leather

http://www.5ShotLeather.com

The question was posed on multiple boards and Mr. Alessi answered in detail elsewhere.

Where, please? I'd like to know too.

I answered on the other forum and so did Lou, but I'll post it here for those that missed it. Most holster-makers, myself and Lou included, are using a clear acrylic finish as a top-coat on their holsters. The holster must be "de-glazed" prior to dyeing in order for the dye to penetrate the leather. The best way to accomplish this is rubbing with acetone. If you try to dye over the clear coat, the dye won't penetrate and will ilkely rub off (when and where you least want it) and some dyes may actually gum up the clear-coat, making a further mess you'll have to remove anyway. After you dye the holster, you're going to want to coat it again, or wax and buff it to prevent dye bleed-off.

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http://www.garritysgunleather.com
"He who works with his hands is a labourer, he who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman, he who works with his hands, his head, and his heart is an artist."
(St Francis of Assisi)

Thank you, Mark. That's good to know. Is something like Feibig's Institutional finish suitable or do you recommend some other brand or kind?

After you deglaze the holster you want the leather slightly damp. In order to get a good even job you want to die the leather BLUE first, let the holster dry and then re-dampen the holster and die the holster black.
If the stitching is white make sure you de-glaze the stitch grove so the die will get down in the grove. If the holster maker used nylon thread instead of linen you could have a problem getting the stitch grove to look right. For a hard working holster that has to fight the elements I like Virgin olive oil applied very lightly and slightly heated and rubbed in with the tip of your finger followed by a good glycerine saddlesoap.

When dyeing leather black the old saddlemakers trick of dyeing the leather blue first gives you a better more even and professional look.
Good luck with your project, Walt

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I don't wear horsehide leather, my horse won't put up with it!

Mr. Hairless,
I believe Fiebings Institutional dyes are kind of diluted. I go with their regular leather dye or pro-dye, or better yet Angelus products if you can find them.

Saddlemaker,
Good advice; a saddle-maker near me in NW Phoenix uses similar techniques.

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http://www.garritysgunleather.com
"He who works with his hands is a labourer, he who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman, he who works with his hands, his head, and his heart is an artist."
(St Francis of Assisi)