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I'm having a custom .45 built and I thought I'd run the build list by you fellows to see if I'm leaving anything out. Or what changes you would make.

Caspian carbon steel frame, integral plunger tube, 20 LPI checkered front strap, Beaver-Tail grip safety cut for McCormick safety.

Evolution Gun Works tool steel ignition kit, all Wolf springs, Videcki short trigger (solid - no holes) set at 3-3 1/2 lbs pull, extended mag release, McCormick "Extreme Control" grip safety with raised palm pad, McCormick narrow paddle thumb safety, Flat steel mainspring housing w/ 20LPI checkering, Wilson ejector, Thin smooth Rosewood grip panels.

Caspian carbon steel slide, classic vertical cocking serrations (rear only none on front) lowered flared ejection port, flat serrated top rail, Novak sight cuts front and rear, ball cut, blank slide with no markings.

Kart carbon steel barrel with fitted bushing, 9mm firing pin, tool steel slide stop serrated, standard recoil spring plug and guide.

All internal parts to be forged tool steel or machined parts with no MIM components. Four magazines guaranteed to function (Gunsmiths choice).

Pistol to be delivered in the white and I'm responsible for final finish which will probably be a high polish carbona blue.

What did I leave out?? Any changes I should make before it's too late. Comments appreciated by anyone.

Are you going to treat the rear of the slide in any manner--serrations?

I don't like 20 lpi checkering; over a long shooting session, it's too course and abrasive. I prefer 25lpi. Maybe that's just me. Have you ever shot a gun with 20lpi for 2-500 rounds?

Sounds like you're off to a great start! The only things I can think of to add are a mag well bevel, and to make sure all the sharp edges on the gun are taken care of.

Shoot the snot out of it before getting the final finish applied, and if anything else needs to be done it will come to you. Your gun, done your way from the ground up... you really can't go wrong as long as you end up with what YOU want

-Tim

Dork, I have shot the 20 LPI on a couple of guns I've owned and I haven't noticed anything bad. However, I seldom shoot 500 rds a session. I normally shoot 100-150 at the max (can't afford more!! grin). As for the rear of the slide I haven't specified anything. The sights I'm putting in the Novak cut on the rear is the Caspian "Defensive Adjustable Rear Sight" and it does have a serrations on the face toward the shooter.

Also the Gun Smith is performing his reliability & accuracy work on the pistol. His guarantee is " less than 2" extreme spread" for a 5 round group using Military 230 grain ball National Match ammo at 25 yards. His "usual" accuracy on pistols he builds is slightly over an inch at 25 yds. from a machine rest.

Thanks for all the input.

Oops! I forgot - the mag well is to be beveled. However it is not an extended "race gun" flared mag. well

Did you mention if the grip will be high cut?

caspian frames come high cut from the factory, also caspian 20 lpi checkering really isnt all that sharp, not even close to a springfield TRP for example. Thats been my experience anyway, YMV...

Whoever polishes that pistol to a high polish is going to hate that integral plunger tube.

Just my thought, take it for what it's worth.

Other than that, looking pretty good for a list.

Bob

I did not see any mention of the extractor. Make sure it is tuned properly, and have a second one done at the same time.

Enjoy the process and the end product!

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Steve

Oops, I forgot the extractors. I specified two tuned extractors, tool steel, gun smiths choice. One installed, and one to keep as a spare.

When reading your post it seems that your going to order your frame with the beavertail alreay trimmed for the installation and checkering done. I would have the gunsmith do both in his shop, especially the beavertail fit. It won't be much extra effort for him to cut off the frame tangs anyway. Also the 20lpi on the mainspring is too sharp for me personally. You might be better off going with 30lpi there. More importantly ask the gunsmith what he prefers and suggests as well.
Good Luck with your custom.

Personally, I find the McCormick thumb safety to be the ugliest 1911 part on the market, and totally at odds with the otherwise harmonious contours of the gun. It is a decent enough part - my most-used 1911 has a McCormick ambi - but I spent a couple of hours recontouring it so it looks like it belongs. Does your "no MIM" policy extend to all parts, or just the internals? The McCormick safety is MIM. I think the SVI safety is the only one on the market that is not MIM or investment cast. It is a beautiful part, machined from barstock, but it ought to be for what it costs!
I've heard that cast frames are not best for high-polish finishes, as the polishing can reveal small pin-hole voids in the part; I'll leave it to someone who polishes for a living to comment on that.

That part is still "being retooled" per Chip's website...this has been up since at least March of '07.

I bought a barely used SW1911 from a pal of mine which belonged to his deceased father. His dad had owned the gun since new and he hadn't shot more than 300 rounds through it,all at an indoor range,not ever holstered or dropped or put through any handling drills... it definitely fit the term "lightly used".

The CMC thumb safety is in horrible condition,the portion of the part that rides the plunger and the detent do not line up properly (apparently because of how it was designed) and the safety has a very loose,"uncertain" feel to it. Also the finish is worn and it looks like crap.

I learned of the retool situation when I went looking for a replacement.I'm very curious as to why it is being retooled and also why it is taking so long to do so,was it redesigned or did the mould wear out?

RickB has it right in my opinion,the CMC thumb safety is ugly ...but to address mes228's post,it seems this part is unavailable from the manufacturer at this time.

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Dave

Member NRA

New EGW improved extractor?